August 14, 2008
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Year after year, we hear about the so-called “quintessential summer wine” of rosé (still rosé that is --rosé bubbles rock). Personally, someone else should step up and take the throne, preferably from the white wine world. I’m really not too impressed with rosé as a whole. And so it is, you won’t find me drinking any rosé wine anytime soon, and honestly, probably not throughout the entire summer. It’s more about principle than anything else. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a well-produced bottle of rosé as much as the next guy, but does it really deserve all this attention every summer? Frankly, I don’t think so.
First of all, we have given way too much credit to still rosé wines in general. It really was the easy way out, declaring a mediocre style of wine (in most cases) as the poster child for summertime wines. And of course, once this set in, the market was flooded with even more sub-par examples from Spain, Portugal, South Africa and California. The taste profile in the majority of rosés is flaccid and unbalanced. Lastly, most are mass-produced and have no real backbone. Rosé is a “whatever wine.” You don’t really analyze it because there’s nothing much to analyze. I remember attending a rosé wine tasting in New York City in 2000, and ended up leaving very confused. I had a completely open mind at the time, and I could not understand for the life of me, what was all the fuss about? I literally tasted three wines I could actually palate, all of which were from the Tavel appellation in the South of France.
This brings me to the exceptions to the mediocre world of rosé. It is in the South of France where the majority of serious rosé producers exist. As I mentioned previously, Tavel stood out amongst the masses at a tasting of over 100 rosé wines, the best being the Château d'Aquéria. Tavel is the only appellation in France to make rosé wine exclusively. It is here they truly specialize in rosé, and do it better than almost everyone else. The only superior rosés to those of Tavel that I have found are from the appellation of Bandol. Bandol is the true king of rosé in the South of France, with top producers such as Château Pradeaux and Domaine Tempier.
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Comments
Teka wrote:
Agreed. Rose wines are a bit overrated I feel. I love Spanish wines like albarinos too. I will have to try your list of suggestions next! :)
posted on August 15, 2008 at 8:48 AM
Janet wrote:
Yes, I agree that Rose is confusing at best. It drifts between "cute" and plain awful. Here in Washington State there are a handful of wineries producing rose, including Olympic Cellars "Rose the Riveter." Please don't laugh because this inexpensive bottle ($11)is a lot of fun with a sandwich or soft cheese. Others produced in the Walla Walla appellation are also a bargain, but contain more floral than fruit notes. Cheers.
posted on August 15, 2008 at 4:11 PM
Sandra wrote:
I really loved this article. It was informative and actually mirrored what I feel about wines too. We drink Sauvignon Blanc in the summertime, Merlot in the freezing cold months...and not much else.
posted on August 19, 2008 at 10:18 AM
David J Rust wrote:
Stephen,
Having been raised in a family that didn't drink -at all- I never really gained an appreciation for wine or, really, any alcohol. Right now, about the only things I enjoy in that broad category of beverages are the alco-pops such as Mike's Hard Lemonaide and Kriek Lambic Ale.
The thing is I do enjoy the subtle additions to my cooking that wines (and other liquors) provide. It just seems that, to my taste, drinking a wine straight-up is just too strong of an experience.
Can you suggest something -a method or approach- for a non-wine drinking foodie to cultivate a good appreciation for wine and perhaps work up to the more robust, full-flavored experience?
Thank you, sir, and -yes- cooking an egg with one hand tied behidn your back was truly awesome to behold!
Yours,
Dave
posted on August 20, 2008 at 1:14 PM
Amanda wrote:
Good to see you blogging again, Stephen. Although I have to admit I'm drinking a glass of rose even as I type (and I'm enjoying it quite a bit), the riesling recommendations are much appreciated. Rieslings are my favorite, and I've been impressed by the Hermann J Wiemer wines before. I've been having quite a bit of fun this summer sampling from the Finger Lakes region; my favorite is Hickory Hollow's "Liquid Wisdom." Who could resist the name?
Anyway, I was hoping you could recommend a good port for the colder months. A taste for Victorian literature has led to a curiosity about one of their favorite drinks. Salut!
posted on August 30, 2008 at 9:56 PM