January 4, 2006
SOCIAL SCENE CHALLENGE
This challenge was to design a party dress for one of America's hottest socialites: Nicky Hilton. Socialites are extremely important clients: they wear high fashion; they attend countless special events, both day and evening; and they're loyal to their favorite designers. Broadly speaking, the social world tends to be more conservative about its look than its red carpet competition, the entertainment industry.
Beautiful and with a great figure, Nicky Hilton is a leader in the younger socialite world. She's being groomed for greatness, so her every step must be thoughtful and strategic. Nicky's youth mitigates her need to be more conservative (she wears Heatherette after all), but her aesthetic must not be conflated with that of her sister, Paris, who more appropriately belongs in the category of entertainer. Therefore, Paris can risk looking like a float in a parade, if she chooses.
The designers have 30 minutes to sketch, 30 minutes to shop, and until midnight, plus a to-be-determined amount of time in the morning, to finish.
SANTINO
Santino WINS! He purchased a monochromatic selection of fabrics at MOOD: I called the color "storm cloud gray," as something of a metaphor for his runway behavior during the previous challenge... His dress was, indeed, stunning. The wrapped and tied bodice included an intertwining braid that gave it definition and purpose. This topped off a multi-layered asymmetrical skirt, the layers providing movement and volume. Santino's look was sexy and glamorous, and almost anyone could envision Nicky looking radiant in it. Santino had some tough competition in Nick and Chloe, but he cinched the win with his powerful and passionate presence at the party. Congratulations, Santino!
GUADALUPE
Guadalupe is OUT. I was stunned by this design, but for all the wrong reasons. Admittedly, Guadalupe's work has been exuberant and over-the-top, but I was fully expecting that she would tailor that point of view for Nicky Hilton. Frankly, the black textured fabric that served as the mainstay of the design was exuberant enough. Add to that the fabric flowers and ruched ribbonning and we were confronted with "a hot mess" in the words of a dear colleague. Finally, I was even more stunned by the later addition of what appeared to be a chocolate satin (Daniel's?) panel in the back of the skirt. Was this just a classic case of the-poor-thing-can't-help-herself? On her design sketch was written, "clean, simple, with additives." Guadalupe, it was the additives that killed you.
ANDRAE
Andrae had a proud showing. His charcoal jersey dress was diademed, thereby giving it a depth, richness, and understated elegance. That given, the design itself impressed me with two innovations: pieced, bias cut inserts comprising the skirt and an open weave of ribbons constituting the top's straps. I loved that his "basic" silhouette was anything but.
CHLOE
Chloe designed using a color that I now call "Chloe blue." As far as I'm concerned, she owns that shade! She created a beautiful, youthful dress with a plunging neckline and short skirt. In another designer's hands, the look could have been vulgar, but in Chloe's it was sexy. I loved how she used the black waistband to break up the blue silk charmeuse and give more definition to the top. And her construction was gorgeous. Great work, Chloe!
