A Hairy Decision

Disgusted and interested all at the same time.


When I first saw Chris's human hair come down the runway, I didn't know it was human hair. At first I thought maybe he'd taken a vintage monkey coat, which they used to wear in the '20s and '30s, and thought maybe he recycled one of those. So, my first reaction was like, "Oh, how clever." When I found out it was human hair I was both repelled and attracted at the same time. Kind of like people you shouldn't date.

I thought it was interesting, and I thought it was unpredictable. When you show black clothes, you really have to put a lot of thought into the textures and how you embellish them, or they can get really flat, particularly when you're showing them on television. I thought that was an interesting texture for him to bring in, and certainly outside the box. I don't know if most women, in reality, are thinking about wearing someone's hair extensions on their dress. I don't think it would be the biggest hit in retail, but in a couture situation, sure, it's interesting. rate_runway_04_413.jpg

I really enjoyed the idea of people bringing in their three best looks. I think they had to really think about what they were showing us with those three, and I think it got their heads wrapped around what they had to eventually show at Bryant Park early on. More than just a garment, it's a presentation, so getting the wheels turning earlier is helpful.

Rami's big, black dress had remarkable workmanship in it, and it was different than anything he'd ever done before. Those two things were big pluses. The model found it a little unwieldy to walk in, but I think she's a sporty kind of model. She's not a couture kind of girl, and that was a real couture dress. If Shalom Harlow, who really knows how to work a couture dress, were in it, you'd have a totally different feel. I also didn't particularly like what the dress did for her body, and that's all about, "Do you have the option of what models to put it on?" So, I don't know about that, but I was happy to see him do something that was so painstakingly perfect and intricate, and not draped. He was showing you an evening idea that had nothing to do with ancient Greece and ancient Rome, and there was still movement in the dress. I think that's what he was saying with it. It's not just drapery; it's movement that he likes to see. rate_runway_02_413.jpg

I feel good about my decision at the end of the episode. I think Chris had a really great run, and I think that, although we've had people who have dressed musicians and people like that, he's the first person we've ever had on the show who had ever done these phantasmagorical costumes. And there are tricks that costume people know that quite honestly fashion people don't know, and he brought all of that to this show. Also, he learned as the show went on, how to have a more elegant point of view, and how to be less show-bizzy and less tricky. I think he was a far more accomplished Kayne -- he knew more about the tricks of making theatrical clothes, and I think that definitely added something. I also think he realized that was his advantage, but also his disadvantage. With his three looks he really tried to present something that was theatrical but at the same time had some edge and was fashion, not just theater. It's a tricky thing. Is it costume or is it avant-garde? I think he really showed us he knew how to walk that line. He made a lot of clothes this season that were definitely desirable clothes for women, for real life, but the tricks he learned from the costume world definitely helped him out often.

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