Accessories in the Attic

Stefan gives us the backstory behind this week's card trick and, surprisingly ghostly, runway shows.

Eccentric and surreal were the perfect words for this episode, especially with Eduardo, the dress master, leaving us before the finale! When Nami lost, everyone thought "Bye-bye darling" to Calvin….even Calvin!

However, the infamous Andre Leon Talley once told me "It pays to have a good idea," and the styling of Calvin's looks were based around a good, clever idea (that Edmundo Castillo feather mule on Rachel's head pushed him over the edge for a modern Schiaparelli-meets-Marie Antoinette moment).

I think it's funny that both houses decided to create graphic black or white collections when they had the liberty to go wild and mad for this challenge. I'm glad and impressed that they show restraint which is some how an eccentric statement to make in itself.

Fashion Show #1: Pee Wee's Playhouse

Nami, feeling extremely confident, wanted to have the models holding cards with each designer's name (not the House) etched on it for an old couture showroom feel. Nami was already thinking individually, not as a house for this challenge (the color story was all that united them), so I had to think of something to hold the vision together. Using the black-and-white motif as inspiration I thought of a funhouse…specifically PEE WEE'S PLAYHOUSE!!

To make this graphic and bold statement, I had walls built to hide the enormous LED screen. I added duct tape for more effect, plus a lot of hand painting by the art team for a perfect whimsical finish. The rear projection screen transitioned from Vertigo to carnival lights to various moments of striping models to highlight each designer's exit.

I shortened the catwalk by half to create a half-runway/half-floorshow presentation. If you'll notice, it creates an excellent bull's eye meets exclamation point!

The music was mainly whip sounds and cymbals, with an occasional drumbeat for drama. The set helped the collection feel more cohesive and eccentric than it actually was (Dominique's humpback Geisha dress did make Edourdo's diagonal Hepburn-ruffle dress look slightly conventional).

Personally I would love to see a woman wearing Calvin's cocktail dress and vintage gloves, especially at The Four's Seasons in Milan, or Edourdo's ruffle blouse (minus the pants and belt) at The Carlyle in New York. Even Dominique pigcoat, with some work, could be brought to Simon Doonan to sell in the windows of Barneys.

Fashion Show #2: Grandma’s Attic

When I met with Emerald, Jeffrey was playing along with Cesar's concept of a tie-dye, Woodstock-inspired runway show. I suppose since he convinced Cesar not to ruin the white/ivory dresses with color, that he could not fight him on the idea for the presentation (and he chose his battle wisely).

Though Woodstock is a fun, wild concept (and great place to visit), it didn't work for looks Cesar and Jeffrey had created. So I gently guided the two away from hippies, and led them to Grandma's attic.

I made up a story of a young girl playing in her Grandma's attic, and finding the most outrageous accessories to play with. As the young girl is playing with her newfound treasures, her grandmother's ghost appears, wearing the clothes she had actually worn these amazing accessories with. Emerald loved it, and off I went to build their show.

The stage was filled with objects one might find in an eccentric grandma's attic and the runway itself was distressed to best highlight the pure white ghostly clothes. I had the rear projection screen removed to create an extra-long runway with the models/ghosts walking out of the darkness surrounded by spooky, yet ethereal light.

Congratulations Jeffrey for not only having the winning look (Malena worked it!), but for convincing Cesar not to ruin your pure concepts with dye or paint!

Both houses did a great job this week, but next week will have its challenges, with Calvin and Dominique working together. Meanwhile Cesar and Jeffrey collaborate beautifully (they even hold hands during my consults with them).

PS: I find it even more intriguing, and rather eccentric, that Calvin, Cesar, and Jeffrey all come from a family of 11-12 brothers and sisters each.

Mommy Dearest

Stefan explains his process for creating the final fashion shows, including an inspiration that almost didn't happen.

So at the end of it all, two designers from The House of Emerald Syx are left standing, with dueling red "tribute" gowns, for the win! With the chaos, twist, and turns thrown at these designers, the message from Calvin, Dominique, and our winner Jeffrey was peace, calm, and self-reflective.

Fashion Show #1: Enchanted Forest

My consult with Calvin was very touching because he spoke very deeply and passionately about his dying lover of ten years. While showing me his collection and mood boards (which only had one beautiful picture of a misty forest), he told me that his finale gown would be a tribute to his partner and to the Gay Men's Health Crisis, hence the color red.

Speaking calmly, he said he wanted his fashion show to reflect his journey through this competition from being an angry person to someone more agreeable (though most would beg to differ). I truthfully never saw Calvin as angry…he's just direct and brutally honest (which can feel borderline abusive at times) in his want for things to be as amazing as possible (though that yellow dress from the first day was questionable). At this moment, Calvin became very childlike to me so I thought to make his show into a fairytale of sorts set in the woods.

Using his personal journey and single misty forest image, I created a montage of woods imagery that started with a dark, foggy, moody, leafless forest and end with a lush, sundrenched, green jungle of life that became the perfect backdrop for his red gown (the back of which was gorgeous). I had the models walk through a path of Kara Walker-inspired trees and low looming fog to the sounds of pianos and music box tunes. For a humbling feel, I had the runway covered completely in burlap, which the art team hand sewed together with thick black yarn…it was well worth it! The details of the runway were beautiful and matched the dreamy elegance of Calvin’s final collection.

He and I agreed that the staging should not be as antagonizing as the zombie, barefoot show from the challenge before, though Calvin may have wanted to do something slightly more aggressive if given another chance. I'm glad we stuck with this tone because I believed it charmed the judges and almost got Calvin the win. Fashion Show #2: City Slicker

Dominique, the last surviving member of Nami, was also self-reflective during my consult with her. But unlike Calvin, her journey ends in chaos. She wanted her show to be all about her a naive, innocent arriving in NYC and entering this competition with beautiful jazz-style music in her head (well, iPod) and leaving with static, noise, and confliction (could David have had anything to do with this?).

I was impressed with Dominique’s ambitious ways during the whole competition and her willingness to try new things, like making her own plaid and deconstructing those umbrellas to create a chic sheath dress. One of the pieces Dominique made that she edited out of her final collection was a tangled wired bustier and ankle cuffs that were a cool, modern touch to her slouchy chic (which I love) silhouette.

Dominique show was the most fun to build because I focused on NYC and the fast-paced vibe here. I opened her show with city sounds set to jazz, which then exploded into techno rhythms. The models were lined up in a power stance behind the LED screen as footage of the subway whizzed by (Glenda Bailey loved this). I then had imagery similar to the of old-fashioned TV static sliced into the all the footage, with the final shot of the TV (and noise) being shut off as the model exited. Her runway was a city sidewalk with grates built in (the choreography was vital here, so the models heels would not get stuck in the grates…kind of like real city life). At the model entrance I designed a wire-filled structure that was inspired by her wire bustier (which never saw the light of day). My favorite moment in her staging was the night surveillance images I sourced with the guy shadowing the model on the catwalk…so eerie, so New York!

Fashion Show #3: Mommy Dearest

Jeffrey's fashion show was the toughest of them all because his journey was inspired by his late Mother’s presence, and I had to be respectful of that. He showed me mood boards of doves and red stains the resembled blood. Then he told me the story of his now famous red gown that was designed with his Mom in mind. After my first consult with Jeffrey, I left with thoughts of heaven in my mind…would it be about angels on clouds and golden gates?

But Bravo exec (and mega sounding board) Lara Spotts, made me examine closely what heaven would truly represent to our Jeffrey. So for my second consult with him (I always had two consult with the designers before the big show), I questioned Jeffrey about his show again (he loves a chic power woman) and what heaven represented to him. While he was talking I noticed a whole other board that he never shared with me with imagery of Buddhist monks and temples. I grabbed the board, and told Jeffrey that his show would be inspired by Buddhism...freedom from suffering, Nirvana. He agreed and went back to sewing (his collection was so far behind to the point that I was worried for him).

I fine tuned Jeffrey’s presentation up to the last minute as to capture the perfect mood for his collection, because I did not see the clothes till the models were dressed. Everything looked stunning on the girls! Once I saw the hair and makeup (Mally did a stellar job) complete I thought his show needed air, so I simplified everything and had the models trot through a grey ash filled catwalk (which captured a smoky, saintly atmosphere) as if they were entering a temple. The ash would also give a more deconstructed look to his pure clothes especially on the clothes with longer hemlines (some still with raw edges). Plus Jeffrey patiently handed painted all the models shoes with white paint (as if he did not already have enough to do) so the chalky ash looked great and modern (very Rick Owens meets Donna Karan).

I had the art team paint the symbol for the word PEACE on the runway and we built a candle filled alter at the bottom of the catwalk for an OM SHANTI feel. As I had the model posed on the stage for a final tableau, I asked our lighting guy to shine one perfectly bright beam of light on the group of girls for a heavenly glow.

And it all worked! Guest powerhouse judge Mary J. Blige could not stay in her seat… she loved it so much. And Jeffrey won!