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View All PostsGael Greene
Mastering the Art of the Masters
Gael Greene wishes she saw more of the chefs in the kitchen, and reveals her Masters crush.
July 30, 2009I’m with the blogger who wished last July 29th’s show was twice as long so we could really see what the six competing master chefs are doing in the kitchen and not just the dramatic and revealing highlights: Art Smith drops half his sweet potato chile fries Antia Lo improvises classic American biscuits on the spot. Rick Bayless, and Michael Chiarello, each improvising on the other’s signature dish, both go Italian.
In 40 years as a restaurant critic, I’ve never spent as much time as I would like in kitchens during service. But when I did, it was always a revelation and informed my reviewing: Watching Girardet peeling apples during lunch in Lausanne. David Bouley improvising a chef’s tasting a la miunte. In the Côtes Basque kitchen with Jean Jacques Rachou and his huge crew. Long ago at Le Pavillion in the kitchen for a week trying to master Chef Clement Grangier’s quenelles de brochet.
Of course we judges don’t get to see scenes from the shopping and cooking before we taste and debate who wins. We do get to ask questions and the chefs get to defend their dish or do a mea culpa … but for me, it finally all comes down to the joy in the eating.
I have a crush on Hubert but that isn’t going to affect my tastebuds. His sea urchin sauce was a bit feeble – the sea taste blurred by cream. Sorry Hubert. The unabashed pleasure Rick gets in cooking and his charm comes across on camera as does Michael’s possibly too well-honed camera presence. They both can really cook and improvise. I especially loved Rick’s deliciously stuffed quail (and I managed not to say what I was thinking about the position of the bird’s legs. Guess there was no time to truss up.)
Anita can be so unassuming, it was a special joy to taste her bravura ode to lobster. And to see her face when she won.
I’ve been meaning to write that a lasting dividend of my stint on TCM was getting to meet and dine out with James Oseland and spending time with Kelly whom I knew from New York but just fleetingly. James is just as he seems on camera – sweet and smart and fussy in the best way and he is hopelessly addicted to ethnic exotica and would run off to Japan or Koreatown at the sign of a half hour break in taping.
Kelly’s role on camera doesn’t a clue to how funny and irreverent she is, how full of sass and what an amazingly hard worker she is. And contrary to the evidence of her Scarlett O’Hara waist, she prowls the caterer’s table and actually EATS. But apparently nothing goes to her thighs, it all goes to her brain. It would be easy to hate her for that superior metabolism alone if she wasn’t right there in the judges’ green room, no airs, no fuss, just dishing along with the rest of us.
Gael Greene
www.insatiablecritic.com
I love this show, but I have a really good reason for loving it as much as I do. My late father was one of world's great master chefs. His name was Clement Grangier Executive Chef. He tought my sister and I the art and love of french cuisine. We both love to cook, but most of all we miss his fine cuisine he would cook up for us everyday for dinner and always the fine deliceous desserts he would prepare. My hat goes off to this show. it is a great hit with my family.
Gael,What delight to see you and come to know you by watching this past Master Chef series.I'v never heard of you until now.I resently read your bio to find out who Gael Greene really is.You had me captivated whatching you and then to listen to you speak.Ok about the finale.I was rooting for Hubert all through the competition.All of the competitors this past season are truely masters in their kitchens but Hubert Keller is a true Master Chef.It was said before about your hats-I love hats also.You are a true gracful woman with alot of knownlegde.I look forward seeing you next time.Start spreading the news-I'm leaving today-New York-New York
Ms. Greene,
You are so gracious, it's a pleasure to listen to your comments. I too have a crush on Hubert! I don't cook, don't like it, have a tiny kitchen in Manhatten (which is my excuse). But I've gained such a respect for chefs and all the work that goes into being a top chef. This program has changed my total outlook on a well cooked meal and what it entails to be a top chef. Hope you'll return.
I have so enjoyed Top Chef Masters. Any one of them could win and I'd be delighted, but I lean toward Rick, they are all appear so genuine- but him especially. I've really enjoyed listening to the judges' comments. Great show.
Oh good LORD who doesn't have a crush on Hubert?!?! And if someone doesn't then why heck don't they? :)
Ms. Greene~
I have enjoyed you and the show immensely. I do hope that, if they do a second "season" of Top Chefs Masters, you will once again sit as a judge. I enjoy all of the judges, but I have particularly enjoyed you and your hats!
I can't say enough how your presence really drives home the level of talent and competition that is being gifted to us viewers.
Dear Ms. Greene,
You are a daunting presence on the Critic's Table. Even though I attended cooking school (and passed the test) I would not wish to have you judge my results of a dish that was picked out of a hat.
I appreciate that Top Chef Masters is different than Top Chef and like that everything is elevated (no bunk beds for the chef) and it is rewarding that they care for each other. There's no backbiting or bitchiness.
Now to the hats. My great aunt ran the millinery department at a major department store in Montreal and negotiated all their purchases from Paris et al. The wife of the retired naval officer who married us nearly seven years ago was a milliner and today is still an artist and craftswoman.
When I was about eight, one of my great aunt's best customers went home with a Dior hat, red with a wired ponytail up top. She wore it to a party and took it back the next day. So in 1964 I went to church in a $500 Dior hat she could not re-sell and hated it at the time.
So, Ms. Greene, I've a love affair with stories of great hats and great food reviewers. Thanks for being you.
I love, love,love the show and everyone on it. Outside of the appeal of Chef Hubert, I have major respect and love for Chef Michael C. It is such a joy to see Chefs have respect and appreciation for each other and the passion for their Art of food.
Ms.Greene, I also enjoy your hats and how you always match them with what you are wearing. My Mom was a big hat fan and wore them beautifully,as do you. When I see you I think of her when she was alive. Thank you so much.
Gael - I must say that I enjoy your comments at judge's table. I am horrified to watch a preview of next week's elimination challenge with the young Top Chef contestants. The audience realizes that the culinary world includes many egomaniacs. But someone like a previous Top Chef contestant should be in awe of the opportunity to work inthe same kitchen with the Master Chefs. What I saw in the snippet was troubling. I hope there is more to Dale's lack of respect for Michael. I can not wait for next week, but it looks like Chef Michael handled that hot headed snot nose with maturity, intelligence and bravado. WATCH WHAT HAPPENS!
I love this show and watch each episode twice. You are great and I'm jealous.
Do you have any books about your eating experiences?
Gael,
I love this show so much, I watch the re-runs over and over again. Ok, Hubert is the most dreamy guy, I and most of the women in the world think so, how can you not?? He is so sweet and humble. I think this show is tops, all the judges and Kelly too. You said really wonderful things about Kelly and I totally agree, she is delightful and so NY. Keep it up Gael and give us some more master top chef's to enjoy!!
Dear Ms. Greene,
You look so fabulous in your hats! Have you visited Ellen Christine Millinery In Chelsea? There are so many there that would look divine on you.
Gael,
Join the crowd. I have a crush on Hubert, too! He is so sexy, so talented, and so very nice. I'm guessing a LOT of women have a crush on Hubert.
As for someone else's comment here, I don't think Kelley is an improvement over Padma at all. They are both wonderful, in their own way.
I just love this program. I wait for each new weekly episode with eager anticipation. What a joy to see these Masters create!
Quite simply - you are a delight to watch.
Well, I was one of the bloggers who wanted to see more of the chefs in the kitchen cooking with one another. Maybe you could use some of your "clout" and convince Bravo to air that whole footage. As is "lost footage". that would be GREAT.
Yes I agree with you on Kelley. She is such an improvement over Padma. And , in my mind, prettier.
BTW, I love the fact that you always give favorable comments along with your critisms. I , like you, love Hubert Keller. I think he is a true MASTER CHEF. But I must say, that Rick Bayless is so genial, fun and a great chef. I love his laid back demeanor. He and Michael are a great duo. I do think Hubert will bounce back and take this crown. Plus, I love his charity. Keep up the good reviews. (BTW did you REALLY have an affair with Elvis?)
I have a crush on Hubert Keller also. But you get to see him and talk to him in person and eat hisfood. How fortunate for you.
this was def the best episode so far! doing a great job gael! you and the rest of the critics are so insightful and fair. i wish we could see more interaction btwn the critics and also kelly. and i agree that the portrayal of kelly on top chef doesn't do her justice.
Dear Ms. Greene,
I truly appreciate your eloquence. Your criticism to the chefs is succint, careful and respectful. I thought the same thing when you described Art's lamb burgers as "grotesque". They really looked unappetizing. (Sorry, Art!) Rick Bayless does have an enthusiastic charm about him that is infectious. Anita astounds me with her intellectual approach. Hubert is simply elegant... I have trouble rooting for one individual because many bring something very unique to the table.
Gael,
Your sophisticated taste applies to more than food....I too have a crush on Hubert!
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