Which was why Jonathan Waxman’s riff on Shepherd’s pie was such a total winner. Sure, it wasn’t in the classic style, the ingredients piled into a pan and baked for a moment to give a crisp shell to the mash. But the lamb stew was ripe and rich and the pommes puree was the sort of thing cardiologists send their kids to college on. Yum, yum and, as they say in these parts, yum.
As for dear sweet Ludo Lefebvre I’d say he made a pig’s ear of it but that, I think, was last season.
Jay Rayner is the author of The Man Who Ate The World: In search of the perfect dinner, published by Henry Holt. Follow him on twitter @jayrayner1