Anthony Bourdain

Anthony Bourdain's take on Season 3's Restaurant Wars.

on Aug 15, 2007

Brother Hung, by contrast, had a very good day. His burger was looked upon with favor by Daniel, inspiring Hung to giggle and blush like he'd been asked to the prom. He finally found something to do with those damn tempura flakes. And it was nice to see him encounter a chef/judge he clearly respects.

Whatever you think of "bad guy" Hung, you have to admit he rose to the challenge with his much admired "tuna tartare", which was not a tuna tartare at all -- but a cleverly inspired deconstruction of a beloved bistro classic, the "Nicoise Salad". Pretty, playful, modestly proportioned, beautifully conceptualized, creative, yet perfectly familiar in its components -- which is to say, perfect for a "bistro" themed meal. Also, apparently, delicious. It was the dish of the night. Hung, for once, used his strange and terrible powers for good and not evil. And I say, give the man credit.