Cast Blog: #TOPCHEF

Hugh Wants Nick to Be Kind to Himself

Gail Has No Problem With Blood

Make George's Cravable Breakfast Sausage

Gail Simmons Won't Be Pushed Around

Make Doug's Winning Mussels

Tom Colicchio Answers Your Restaurant Wars Qs

Gail: It Wasn't Keriann's Day

Make Doug's Winning Braised Pork!

Gail: We Had a Tough Job This Week

Make Katsuji's Authentically Delicious Stuffing

Hugh: The Demise of Cornwallis and Aaron

Make Gregory's Winning Dumplings

Richard: Chefs Please Follow Instructions

Richard Tries Money Ball Soup

Make a Home Run-Worthy Popcorn Crème Brule

Hugh: Where There's a Will There's a Fenway

Gail: Keriann and Aaron Were Being ---holes

Make the Winning Surf and Turf

Gail: We're Taking No Prisoners

Richard Goes From Player to Announcer

Tom Talks Boston

Gail: There Was No Season 11 Underdog

Gail: It Was Difficult to Let Go of Shirley

Big Easy to Ocean Breezy

Gail: The Final Four Are Like Our Children

Emeril Is Proud to Serve Shirley's Dish

Hugh: Enough With the Mexican Food Hate

Gail on Favreau, Choi, and Finding Yourself

Hugh on Poor Boys, Swingers and Food Trucks

Emeril: Nick's Choice Is Part of the Game

Nick's License to Immune

Hugh's Sitting on the Dock of the Bay

Hugh Decides Eight Is Enough

Gail Talks OvenGate

Dookie Chase Makes Everybody Cry

Fin, Found, Floundering

What Danny Meyer Taught Gail Simmons

'Top Chef' Goes to Hog Heaven

Gris Gris Boucherie Ya Ya

Brian and Travis' Dud Spuds

And Don't Call Me Shirley

Hugh Wants Nick to Be Kind to Himself

Hugh comments on Nick's big win and what he hopes the chef can achieve in the future.

It is the eleventh season, in this the eleventh hour. We have whittled down to Nina Compton, the Italian chef from St. Lucia and Nicholas Elmi, a very talented, French trained from Philly. One has been on a consistent tear all season long and the other has been on a frenetic journey of highs and lows. One is prone to calm introspection and the other is prone to stressful bouts of loathing everything in their wake.

The venue is Maui and that should provide a comfortable backdrop for all of the chefs involved. Clear your mind. Namaste. My mind was clear and freed of all worries, but that may have been the MaiTais. You really should in this lifetime get yourself to Maui and hang loose. It is a phenomenal island full of wonderful people. My family and I ventured pretty far and wide in our little rental car: a wonderful MaiTai lunch at Mama's, awesome sushi at Koiso, a little Mom and Pop joint, a super fun meal at Star Noodle, and many great meals at the Andaz where we based. It was by far the best work vacation ever.

We are privy to some foreshadowing content that shows a very clear truth: this was a really difficult call to agree on. It was a long, long night. I remember the last stretch in Alaska after the Texas season and that was a long night but not nearly as neck and neck as this decision. Trust me when I say this: it was as close as the show makes it out to be. It really was.

So we start with drinks on the couch where Nina and Nicholas are relishing in their position. Nicholas is itching to get this over with, and Nina is as well, but as always Nina has a certain island-calmness about her. They are both picturing themselves wearing that crown and walking a runway made of truffles and foie gras.

I try to imagine Nicholas as a character in It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia, but draw a blank on how we fit he angry chef into the show. Ideas will be vetted.

All is fine until we all wake up the next day and Padma is recreating a Bo Derek scene from Ten, without the corn-row hairdo. I advised for the corn-rows but after James Franco’s character in Spring Breakers that hairstyle has taken a bit of a dive in popularity.

Nicholas is hoping to win the $125K to kickstart his own restaurant where he won’t have to answer to anyone. Let me inform you that you once you open your own place you have to answer to the bank, customers, Yelpers, critics, the IRS, the landlord and your family. Lesson number 47: There is always someone to answer to, unless your name rhymes with Keesus Plighst, Wallah, or Gouda.

On her walk on the beach Padma has found a bunch of other chef contestants, like seashells, sand dollars, conch or flotsam. From this seaside haul, Nicholas chooses his team: Jason, Louis, and Brian. Nina chooses Shirley, Stephanie, and Travis. The three unpicked are Carlos, Janine, and Sara, who get the horrible punishment of going to the beach and swimming with tortoises. This means that what we eat will probably not be an authentic Pozole, Shrimp-on-the-Barbie, or inspired by an airport-based Wolfgang Puck concept.

They plan the menu.

First to Team Nicholas, who I will call Rage Against the Service Staff Machine. East Coast meets Hawaiian crudo is a Mike Fennelly special from 1994. You will have to be an extreme foodie from Santa Fe, New Orleans, or San Francisco to get that one. Google on. Second course will be scallop noodle, an ode to his bro Jason, who claims he is "just a squirrel, trying to get a nut." We all have our methods to our madness.

Team Nina. I have 99 Luftballons in my head for some reason, but that was spelled Nena. I may need a lobotomy to get it out of my mind. And it's the German version of that post-apocalyptic '80s love song. Aaargh.

Well Nina is wanting a crudo as well and they go shopping for fruit. What happens in between we will never know. During the shopping we reminisce about Pepin's scolding of Nick for a poor panna cotta. He wants redemption.

They are in two different kitchens. One is more equipped that the other. Nicholas got the nicer one, but I think it’s just a roll of the dice. But that role has resulted in Nina being without a ice cream spinner or a Paco Jet, which is a fancy burring device that you can make ice cream with. Paco Jets are killer. We love them.

Chef coats on. Teams are a go go with Jason on noodle, Brian on duck, and Louis on crudo. Nicholas is playing cheffy chef and overseeing them all. He's driven. Nina is trying to get together a dessert. She's going to make donuts, or Stephanie is. Travis is busting it and Shirley is moving at Shirley speed, which is faster than anyone else in a professional kitchen nowadays.

That swordfish looks pretty. Over to team Nicholas' kitchen where Jason is ego pressing some shellfish. He says it's a 200 pounds of ego pressure but I think it more like 2 tons. No one ever called him shy.

Tom and Emeril walk in and Tom is audibly perplexed when he learns that Jason was the first chef picked to be on Team Nick. This shunning makes Jason angry until he glimpses a beautiful man only to realize it is but his own reflection. The Earth is back in balance. Nicholas, Tom and Emeril talk through the season and whittle down to this: Nicholas is a chef of nuance. Nuance needs to show through in taste and style or he will not be Top Chef.

Tom and Emeril interrogate Nina. Dessert is the topic. We always talk about this in the finale: should a chef do dessert? Obviously it is not Nina's strong suit and Tom is all for four savory courses to stay strong. He may have a point. He often does.

Jason is nominating himself the most important chef in this finale. The weight is on his shoulders. He is going to make these scallop noodles rock the world. He is his own life at his own party. And for a squirrel, he does have great hair.

I would take Shirley on my team in an instant. Just sayin’.

They dress up and go to O'o Farm to hang with Emeril and Tom. The families arrive. They all get teary. They eat pig head to memorialize the occasion.

Gettin' realz. Nicholas conducts a pre-shift waiter meeting and demands excellence. First I would have made sure they were paying attention, then when I realized they were not, I would try to figure out a way not to bamboozle the newbie waiters with a ton of table service. "Service is going to be. . .relatively intense." Truer words are rarely spoken.

Nina has her waiters wearing grey toned Hawaiian shirts. This sets a somber tone. Nicholas is getting really mad at his servers. They are wondering whether this job is worth the abuse.

We are dining in two separate groups: Tom and Gail are joined by David Kinch (Manresa, Los Gatos, CA) and Takashi Yagihashi (Takashi, Chicago). Padma, Emeril, and I are joined by Paul Bartolotta (Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, Las Vegas) and the OG Morimoto (Morimoto restaurant group). So when you have a sustainable mastermind in David, two sushi masters in Takashi and Morimoto, and the preminent expert on Mediterranean fish. Not too shabby.

Nina: Breadfruit with Whipped Foie Gras Butter. All of team Tom enjoy this bonus.
Nina: Tuna and Escolar Tartar With Tomato Water and Jalapeno. Good news as they love it again.
Nina: Roasted Goat Sugo With Orecchiette, Cherry Tomato Confit, and Goat Cheese. Killer. Killer. So awesome.
Nina: Swordfish with Squash Puree, Braised Kale, and Smoked Onion Jus. Wintery. Not very evocative of Hawaii, Italy or St. Lucia. More evocative of Rhode Island.
Nina: Compressed Dragon Fruit and Frozen Papaya Skewer. Odd. But nicely timed.
Nina: Chocolate Zeppole with Macadamia Nuts and Passion Fruit Anglaise. Fell flat. Unfinished in comparison to the rest of her courses.

Nicholas is having some service problems and it is one thing when diners don’t notice the dictatorial directives, but its less than enjoyable when, as diners, we see this.  

Nicholas: Hamachi and Tuna Green Apple Wasabi, Celery, and Maui-Meyer Lemon. Not cut beautifully and there is only so much you can plate off to the side to wow us. I mean it was good and all but in the battle of crudo, Nina won in my mind.
Nicholas: Sweet Shrimp Bisque, Scallop, and Daikon Noodles with Thai Basil. Tom loved this, like dish of the year stuff. I didn’t. Just didn’t really make sense to me. That is just my humble opinion though. The opinions at my table were very much like mine.
Nicholas: Kombu Cured Duck Breast With Kabocha Squash, Hijiki, and Ginger. It was a great dish. Maybe the duck was a bit chewy, but it was great nonetheless.
Nicholas: White Chocolate Panna Cotta Almond Cocoa Crumble and Tropical Fruit. Not a panna cotta but an interesting dessert.

During service Nicholas was having a lot of problems with his servers and I think its kind of the same problems you would have with a temp catering staff. You can never assume they will be at the same level as your normal crew. You must work around the fact that this is all brand new to them and adjust. If you yell, they only get worse. It's like yelling someone who is terrified. They do not suddenly get over it. This is really and truly what I saw happening with service Chez Nick.

So save for the service issues, both did great. Pound for pound, both chefs brought beyond their A game. They killed it. Through the whole season the food Nina created was so pure, so different, yet so homey. Nicholas gave us sublime food and some bricks, but boy oh boy he can cook when he nails it.

Oh my, the table was a long one. It was a four course affair and we had them split on courses. It came down to which food was more memorable and enjoyable in the moment. Not an easy decision.

Nicolas by a hair.

The verdict was cast in the wee hours of that following morning and it was great to see the thrill and relief on Nicholas' face. It was like he had just run the marathon of his life and it hadn't really gone the way he wanted to at times -- but that the end result made it all worth it.

As for Nina, she will be okay. That hard work and focused dedication she showed through the entire season will earn her monies that will make the 125K pale in comparison. She's a leader through and through.

Nicholas, some words of advice: Your commitment to your craft and to your family is something we can all learn from. My only advice would be to be kind to yourself. You deserve it. Happy chefs make better food.

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Gail: It Wasn't Keriann's Day

Gail can't believe that Keriann wouldn't have shown her teammates how she wanted her dish executed.

Bravotv.com: This week was Restaurant Wars!
GS: Restaurant Wars is always an exciting episode because it’s so hard to do what we are asking of chefs to do. Opening a restaurant is truly so difficult, on a good day if you’re dealing with people you love and work with all the time, let alone with three people you’re competing against and have never worked with in this way before. You don’t really know their strengths and weaknesses, and this is where that it all comes out.

Bravotv.com: So looking first at the Grey Team, Melissa, Doug, Mei, Adam
GS: I knew it was a strong team from the start, but we’ve had plenty of strong teams that have failed in the past. You never know until you sit down at that table to eat their meal. I could tell that they were all serious and they have all performed pretty well up to this point though. Although the other team was stacked too, with Gregory who's won a lot and Katsuji who was coming off his win in the Thanksgiving challenge. Keriann and Katie have made some great dishes too. It was anyone’s game.

I think it was smart of the Grey Team to chose Adam as their front of the house man. He’s gregarious, he’s affable, he is a great storyteller, a great talker, and he has a sense of urgency and confidence. Sometimes he can be over-confident maybe, but I think you want someone working front of house who’s willing to take on that risk. Plus he’s done it before. He understands the importance of that role.

Putting Keriann in the front of the house could have been a good move too. She’s certainly a lovely person. She’s well-spoken and definitely wanted to take on the challenge. I just wasn’t sure if they put her out front because they didn’t want her in the kitchen or because they really thought she’d be good for that role. Either way, that’s the way the cards fell. Katie taking on the chef position I thought was a real risk -- she doesn’t run a kitchen day-to-day. I was proud of her for wanting to do it, maybe because she runs pop-ups, she knows how to do something really quickly like this and that experience could come in handy. The other team chose Doug as their chef, who also doesn’t run a restaurant every single day; he is a sous chef. But you can tell he has that drive and understanding of service, he expedites every day in his restaurant and that’s a really huge piece of how a good restaurant runs. It seemed like everyone knew their roles and everyone was happy at the start. They weren’t forced into anything.

I actually liked both restaurant concepts in theory. "Four Pigs" was family style, rustic, comforting, American, bold flavors, relaxed environment. I think that suited who they were, and I think they did a great job. The concept of "Magellan" was a really great idea too. Magellan being an explorer, the spice route, all of the dishes having complex spice elements. The issue you run into with that concept though is that if it’s too loose, everyone is literally all over the map (pun intended). So even though the idea’s inspiration is exploration, when you as the customer sit down and eat that meal, do you really want to be eating things from all over the map? Do they go together? Sometimes the chefs get carried away by the idea of that exploration, and forget that a meal still has to feel cohesive. I don’t know who would want to be eating seven different cuisines all at one table. There needs to be a common thread between them more than just that they all have spice. All spices don’t taste good when they’re combined. I think that’s the first issue this team had. They were all making their own dishes and not really discussing how those dishes would talk to each other when they were actually put on people’s plates.

Bravotv.com: So, let’s start with the dishes from the Grey Team.
GS: The Grey Team started with Adam’s salt-baked clams with ramps, bacon and sunflower seeds. Very seasonal (we filmed this in the spring), very New England. I love clams from that part of the country. We saw that he got in a little hot water when he lost his first set of clam shells, but he was able to completely bounce back. The dish was tasty, it was a perfect starter, a savory little bite. And you were really able to taste all of those flavors without overshadowing the clam itself, which with ramps and bacon is a hard thing to do.

Mei’s chicken liver toast with plum puree was also delicious. The plums cut through the fat in the chicken liver which I loved. It was a little bit too wet though, so the chicken liver dripped and was a little bit looser than what I wanted. I like it to be just a little thicker so there’s a more texture to it, and also so it doesn’t drip all over your hand. It did remind us of a very sophisticated peanut butter and jelly sandwich. It was salty and tart, and had just enough richness from that liver to satisfy you but not fill you up. Beautifully presented.

We all loved Doug’s braised pork shoulder. The baked beans, onion, and mustard went so well together. The mustard lightened up the dish and the pickled onions of course did too. It was a homey, comforting dish. The pork shoulder just melted in your mouth. I wish I had a bowl of it right now actually.

Melissa’s scallop was probably the weakest dish on that team. By no means does that mean it was awful. It was a lovely idea, light and fresh. Scallops and grapefruit and radish are a perfect combination. It felt a little bit more like an appetizer salad though than a main course. Her scallops were on the salty side and a little bit overcooked too. We wanted them a bit softer, a little more rare in the center. It was a really nice dish, but compared to the other dishes on her team, it felt a simple and slightly out of place. Everything else had a soulfulness to it and this seemed to be sort of off in the corner, but I was still happy to eat it.

Mei's brussels sprouts was their side dish and they were also really tasty. Brussels sprouts and anchovies go surprisingly well together! But they was over-dressed and the brussels were a little overcooked. They just needed to be toned down. I can remember when we were finished eating them, there was a pool of vinaigrette at the bottom of the bowl. If she had been a little more light-handed on the vinaigrette when she tossed it, it probably would have been a better dish.

Melissa’s dessert was very well-made -- apples, mixed-berries, cardamom cream, a classic fruit cobbler. I just wish she had done something a little more interesting. Berry cobbler is something anyone can make at home. It doesn’t mean it isn’t a good dish. You’re a professional chef though, and this is Top Chef so if you’re going to give me a cobbler, show me cobbler in a way I haven’t seen before. Whether that’s a special biscuit on top or a combination of flavors of fruits, or a presentation I haven’t seen. In every way this cobbler was basic. I enjoyed eating it, it just was a little boring.

Bravotv.com: And then Magellan…
GS: Oh Magellan. We all were really excited when Katie’s roasted beets came to the table. It sounded fantastic. But she made the dish in a composed way, meaning that the beets were on one side, the curry was just underneath. Everything was separate, so it was very difficult to taste all together. Her flaw was that there wasn’t a conversation going on between all of the components in the dish. She left the beets completely dry on the side of the plate, but she had this beautiful curry and this coconut and this pickled cauliflower, she could have dressed them wonderfully, had she mixed them up, had she presented the dish in a different way. It really shows you that ingredients are only one piece of the puzzle. You can have five different beautiful ingredients, but unless you put the dish together in a way that highlights them, it falls flat.

Katsuji’s hamachi sashimi was totally fine. The hamachi was very big and cut in a bit of a ragged way. I wish they had been smaller or more smoothly cut, so that they weren’t as messy to eat and a little more refined. But the dish itself was perfectly well made. I liked his dried pozole too; I thought it was very interesting. A little odd, a little out there, but I applaud Katsuji for pushing boundaries of what we think of as pozole with it.

Gregory also made two dishes. His seared haddock was my favorite dish of the night. The fish was great, the tomato was flavorful. I thought the dish came together nicely, it was cohesive. I liked the garam masala. Although he could have probably simplified a little bit. His pork tenderloin was perfectly cooked too, it sounded so rich and delicious in its description, but was a little disappointing to eat because it was a little less flavorful than I expected with all of those components. Like Katie, he also separated out all of the ingredients. I was hoping to get a dish that was really bold in these Chinese flavors, the hosin and the XO sauce. I wanted it all to be mixed in a way that every bite had all of those tastes and it wasn't.

And then there was our dessert, Keriann’s vanilla crepe. I’m still totally confused as to how she wanted it. She wanted it room temperature, she wanted that mousse to be stiff and hard, not spreadable? I can’t understand how it would’ve been served that way and been successful either. But I do know that the way it was served definitely didn’t work. As much as I’m sure she was devastated by the way her team chose to change her dish, and especially that they didn’t tell her before they did so, I still think it would not have been a successful dish had she served it her way either. I’m just totally baffled by how it was supposed to be, and how she didn’t notice until the second half of service that it was being served in a different way. What I especially don’t understand is how she didn’t plate one for them first. If she had just plated a full dish, showed it to all of them and they all tasted it before she went out to service, they all would’ve known exactly how she wanted it and would’ve done it that way. How do you create a dish and leave people to execute it but not show them how it’s supposed to be? That’s why we decided Keriann had to be the one to be eliminated. There were a lot of problems with service at Magellan. Clearly, customers weren’t getting dishes, or they were getting dishes twice. No one knew where anything was, it was impossible to get water or a server. It was impossible to find Keriann. She put food down and then walked away without explaining it. There were so many times when we were completely thrown off by the service. And, in addition to all this, her dish didn’t make sense -- not only because of how Katie and Katsuji changed it, but in her vision in the first place. Keriann worked hard, she pushed herself, I’m proud of her. I think she’s a strong person, a good cook and will have a successful. I just don’t think this was her day.

Next episode: the judges hit Whole Foods!

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