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Fern Mallis

The Most Important Challenge

Fern Mallis shares her disappointment with the designers' attitudes.

June 5, 2009

Bravotv.com: What did you think of this week’s challenge concept overall?
I actually think it was probably the most important and essential challenge yet!

If these designers really want to be "designers," they need to dress real people with real bodies, and real issues. They are not creating clothes for Barbie, or only for a tall thin model on a runway.

Bravotv.com: After seeing how the designers reacted to the challenge, do you think Isaac was accurate in describing it as "sizist?"
I completely agree with Isaac and I was shocked and very disappointed to see how they reacted to this challenge. Their attitudes and hostility towards these women was horrific.

Saying they never design for real women, or were so uninspired by them, and dissed them so much was not pleasant or professional. I was, however, as the show progressed, pleasantly surprised to see that for the most part they did come through after their bitchy comments, seeing their fear and virtual breakdowns.

Bravotv.com: Which looks stood out to you for better or for worse?
As we selected Daniella's dress to win ... and so did the audience ... it did stand out for me. It was very appropriate, looked very slick, and really did the trick as a "makeover" dress ... transforming her model and making her look and feel confident ... and it successfully addressed her body issues. It was even more impressive after seeing Daniella breakdown and feel overwhelmed by the challenge.

Bravotv.com: Do you think Daniella made the right choice in her nomination?
Yes — I think Angel's dress was very disappointing. It was sloppy, and didn't really deal with the issues of her model ... and she is capable of so much better. Also she could have selected someone she just doesn't like, like Merlin, but she used her good sense to stay focused on the clothes only.

Bravotv.com: Do you think there is one "problem area" that is hardest to design for?
Not really ... it is generally a combination of things that don't work. A big bust, or hips, or long legs, or short waist, or flat chest, big butt — are all things that can be dealt with ...

Bravotv.com: Obviously please add anything else about the episode that you’d like to.
I loved the Mini Challenge and laughed out loud when Isaac surprised them after they all thought they absorbed the details of Isaac's dress and in fact they needed to have paid more attention to Kelly's dress!

Next:
Shoes Shine
Shoes Shine Fern Mallis gives her take on the debate over bland vs. over-the-top. June 5, 200919 Comments The Fashion Show Ultimate Collection Season 1 / Episode 4 / Fern Mallis

Comments

30 Comments

I appreciate your critique of "sizism, but at the end of this interview you essentially fall into the same mentality when defining "problem areas": "A big bust, or hips, or long legs, or short waist, or flat chest, big butt — are all things that can be dealt with ..."

Are all the natural shapes of women "problems" to be "dealt with"?

It occurs to me this episode is not so much about celebrating "other" body types (i.e. non-anorexic) so much as trying to camouflage them into looking as much as possible like a homogenous ideal.

I, for one, believe women with "a big bust, or hips, or long legs, or short waist, or flat chest, or big butt' can do more than "deal with" it: I suggest we can enjoy it.

But we aren't helped along much by a fashion industry that continues to treat our natural selves as something to be "camouflaged."

Lastly, I find your shock a bit disingenuous. It is fine to make a fuss over such overt comments, but where is your outrage over the other nine shows in which every design has been showcased on a very unhealthy-looking woman?

I need to know where Fern gets her clothes too! She is the one woman on TV who is over 50, overweight and still fashionable. I am over 50 and overweight, and I want so much to be fashionable! I want to know how she decides what to buy, where she buys it, how she arrives at her personal choices, etc.

I love Fern's personal wardrobe, too. Can you tell us where you shop?

I don't understand some of the winners, Merlin's outfit tonight was horrible. HORRIBLE. and the other chick's who came in second was not Skater. I know, I'm 23 and work in the music industry, I know what hip, people my age are wearing, NOT THAT. God no. stab me in the eyes.

Fern,
I am glad you brought up the subject of attitudes. I stopped watching because daniells whining and complaining. Grow up...I wanted to tell her. She is just to spoiled to watch. No thank you. I can not believe you and Issac are doing this show. Its terrible...just had to blog.

P.s. The skill level is horrible...don't even care to know whos been sent home already. You lost me when you sent the men's tailor home. (I'm sure he's working though)

With the bad attitudes of the "designers" -- I would NEVER purchase their outfits or anything from their line if they made it. If this show has another season - future designers need to think about that. Sizist? fine, but keep it to yourself or you will lose clients/money. Yay for Isaac for pointing out their bad attitude. Not even sure if I want any of them to win at this point. Real women pay real dollars and my real dollars will not go to these designers.

Plus the dress was very, very dowdy. We can all hide or bodies in black - we don't need a designer to do that (and then win).

This type of contest isn't fair to start with because some of the models will look better no matter what they wear simply because they are better looking! To do this right you need to give all the designers approximately the same size person with the same type of flaws to correct, etc.

PR did this and (natch!) the skinny model won. The people who drew the heavy models didn't stand a chance.

I can understand wanting your clothes to look the absoulte best.

But, none of the real models had significant figure issues.

The funny thing about the designer's sizist attitudes is have they looked in the mirror. I mean, don't they ever even make their own clothes?

Do writers for these comment pages realize that they are being more "sexist" and "sizest" than anyone on the show? The judging, this time, was fair and the outcome correct. Reco did make 3 pieces and his cutting and seaming was good. The skirt fit very well. But his color choices were poor and, in spite of raves about the blouse, it did not go well with the skirt and vest. Also, the sleeves (length) were not flattering to the arms.
Daniella also made three pieces and, as we all remember from Project Runway, taking on a fitted and darted coat with complex seaming and collar design is a big challenge. She also knew to bone the dress thus giving it a beautiful fit in the waist and pushing the difficulty of the less difficult piece of her ensemble.
It was excellent work. Her model looked and felt great. Most importantly, on Daniella's part, it was instinct that led her forward to meet the assignment. She got very little from her "client" and, because she is very young, she did not have past experience to pull her through.
I do think that the editors of these shows pick out the most dramatic moments in the workroom and very often they are not flattering to the contestants.
If the work speaks, Daniella won hands down.

Wow, do I miss project runway...

Fern, Thank you for always being the calm in the Drama Storm that is designers on tv! I was shocked, absolutely SHOCKED that the designers acted as they did.

This show, unlike Project Runway, has the focus on "saleability" to the masses. Since Bravo has told them they will sell the most "saleable" item(s) that win the audiences' approval, one would think they understand that saleability means wearability.

Also, I realize what we see on TV is a very short snapshot of how the dress/outfit looks up close. Although Daniella's dress looked very well made, I hated what she did to that woman's look. OK, so she was a little, and I mean a little overweight. D ended up making her look like a 1940's-1950's housewife in that dress, and I just hated it.

Reco, should have one again.

Fern,

I am glad to read what you have to say about the designers' sizist attitudes, and I was also glad to hear Isaac call one of them out on it at the time. I only wish that he would have driven the point home more to all of them at the judging. To hear John Paul refer to himself as "Jesus" confronting the "Satan" of designing for a real woman rather than a clothes-hanger made me sick to my stomach. And is it just me, or isn't Daniella actually a "real sized" woman herself? That really smacks of hypocrisy to me.

Fern, you looked beautiful on the show 7th June. I saw a outfit you had on was really beautiful. Is there any you can tell me where you got iy from, and who was the designed it. please please, it looked like baby blue color,like tunic and matching pants. Thanks. MINA

Daniella's dress was horrible - dowdy, bland, and dark. Perhaps it would be appropriate as a halloween costume (think mother of the vampire) but not for a vibrant woman looking for a makeover.

Odd that all the winning garments for sale so far are black, exception, taupe coat. Daniella's model was heavily cloaked in black fabric. Looks like something one would wear to a winter funeral. One of your comments was to see color, but you vote black. Enough already!

Fern,
I always enjoy you and your comments on the show. This week I think you stole the show with your fabulous outfit! It was better than anything designed by the contestants or worn by the other judges/hosts. Who designed it? Where can I get it?

I wear a plus size and it is refreshing to see a style that would look good on a real woman.

I really like you on the show.

I agree with Fern when she said that designing for full figured women is reality because "Barbie" isn't reality. But if full figured women are bored with black or navy and the lines of Daniella's dress they should lose weight. I think Daniella's dress was size and shape appropriate. That's just what works on that shape, and if you don't like it change it. End of story. Daniella's client gave her no ideas on color, size or design of the dress. She had no personality so given that I think Daniella did a great job. It's hard to design for someone who has no concept of their own style or taste.

I am really enjoying this new show. Bravo to Bravo! Next season, please change the lighting of the show. The dark light makes it difficult to see the details of the garments. Just a suggestion.

Daniella's dress was okay but I also did not find it to be all that spectacular. There were a couple of other dresess that were much nicer. I'd also like to say that I agree with James-Paul's blog regarding Keith. His dress was certainly not the worst. Angel's dress was horrendous and as much as I like Merlin I thought his outfit was a complete mess. How are these things decided? Popularity contetst??

I too am disappointed in the winning dress. It looks like something June Cleaver would wear. I am a plus size and I never want to wear something that is as plain and dull as that. Daniella needs to try and use some different colors--it seems all she ever does is navy and black--very dull and lackluster.
Reco was robbed of a win this week, it should have been two in a row for him.

Fern,

As a former design school student, I've really been enjoying the show.

As for last night's contest, the only outfit I liked was the one you were wearing! As a plus sized woman, I couldn't help but think that sized up, this design would be perfect for anyone who had a bottom to "camouflage" without the dreaded tent look. The pants were the perfect proportion as well - more than cropped, but less than capri-length. The fabric was truly beautiful as well. Who designed this?

Years ago, Isaac Mizrahi made a 50's style top and pants pattern for Vogue. I made the top and it was the most well-constructed, well-fitting garment I've ever had. Could the designer of your outfit last night do the same? There is a vast amount of women size 16 and over who would be more grateful than you can imagine; myself included.

Thanks in advance,
MzCurlyTop

Fern, you're fabulous in every way and you need to get back to judging PR.

But I'm a little surprised that you noted that you saw Daniella's breakdown, but didn't notice she insulted her client as well.

If anyone, she had the worst attitude about the challenge, but you granted her the win. Oh well, what's done is done. But watch for the next time she does another blue/black outfit. Like you said, this is the season of COLOR!

Fern,

Thank you so much for your criticism of the designers attitudes. In all honesty, I'm not sure that I will be able to watch this show again.

The designers - Daniella, Johnny, and John Paul particularly - showed what little originality and creativity they possess by their wholesale acceptance of the fashion industry's sizist and sexist treatment of women. They may have bought it...but I am certainly not.

And I'm (naturally) a size four.

I agree with Fern. It really angered me that the designers took such an elitist attitude toward "ordinary" women and there are biggest challenges than those girls possed. What made them think it was all about them and their art. Why do any of the designers think they are in the business? And who do they think has the money to buy those designs but real women with imperfect bodies? Give me a break!!

I have to agree with Fern, that Daniella's dress was very typical and somewhat "dowdy". It was certainly "playing it safe" and did not show any creativity for dressing a fuller figure women. I am hoping in future shows the designer's will have more creativity for whomever they are designing for and be less worried about the shape of their models!

Fern,

I normally agree with you but not this time. I did not like Daniella's look at all. My very first impression was "Mrs. Dracula". I am a size 12 and I would never wear that much fabric and the colors! Boooring...

I would have worn Reco's (when I was a size 8), the girl looked really cute and I would wear Lidia's any day, it was elegant. But I guess it is a matter of taste (the viewers).

The arrogance of some of these designers is flabbergasting! I think Isaac was so right to tell Daniella she was a "size-ist". She comes across as the designer with the most "ists". If the final winner is going to be chosen by the viewers, I seriously doubt she'll be in the top three.

Love to read your blog.

Fern,
You could go to any department store and find what Daniella and Reco made.

I'm stunned that someone as knowledgeable about fashion as you are, Fern, considered Daniella's dress "slick" and "very appropriate" and that you thought it "did the trick as a 'makeover' dress." The dress was exactly what older women wore in the 1950s--no color, no pizzazz, just a dark-colored shmata meant to hide their unsexy bodies from the light of day.

It was a "makeover" dress, all right--Daniella's model went into the challenge as a cute, lively-looking young woman with a perfectly fine body and colorful clothes and emerged looking like a grandma c. 1955. The only thing that dress revealed was Daniella's contempt for women who look just like her!

Terrible choice.

Fern,

I am disappointed in the choice of winner this week. Daniella's dress was nice but it was just a basic black dress/coat that everyone wants to put a full figure woman in. There was nothing special about it. You could go to JC Penny's, buy separates and put that same look together. I really feel Reco was robbed this week. His outfit fit his model to the tee. And I don't think I heard him make one disparaging remark about his model. He just came in and got straight to work. You can tell how much time, thought, and skill he puts into his work and he never sends some "half assed" piece of crap down the run way. He ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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