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Gail Simmons

It's all French to Me

Gail discusses the importance of knowing the basics of French cooking.

Sep 9, 2009

To understand the gravity of tonight’s challenge, it is vital to consider that French cuisine and its history provide the foundation for all other Western cuisine. Without this “grandpère” of cooking, we probably would not have the rich American culinary traditions we hold so dear. A truly well-rounded chef must be well versed in the fundamentals of French haute cuisine – or the high art of French cooking – laid out by the likes of Marie-Antoine Carême and Auguste Escoffier over the past few centuries. The language and structure of the kitchen in America is still very much dominated by French terminology – sauté, mise-en-place, brigade, brunoise, crème anglaise, even the word chef itself – all indispensable French terms used constantly in any fine-dining kitchen. So too are the basic techniques of “cooking protein” and making sauce, which we chose as the focus of this week’s show. More on that in just a moment…

After the sudden elimination of poor Jesse in the Quickfire Challenge – an escargot battle judged by none other than the king of French cuisine in America and my former boss, Daniel Boulud – the chefs were told they would be cooking a six-course dinner for a table of the most successful and renowned French chefs in the country. As if this were not traumatic enough, the dinner was to be hosted by Joël Robuchon, a legendary French chef known by many as the “Chef of the Century,” who, a few years ago, came out of early retirement to open an exceptional 54-seat restaurant at The Mansion of the MGM Grand Hotel & Casino, in Las Vegas, his first venture in the United States.

Here, I must interrupt my own train of thought to tell you that under the makeup and calm veneer I was sweating bullets this entire Elimination. The atmosphere was never more stressful than it was during the shooting of this single episode. How our producers devised a scenario bringing together the most celebrated and accomplished French chefs on the planet at one table, I will never know. Upon screening the episode a few days ago, my husband, seated on the couch beside me, laughed out loud, saying, “I cannot believe that little you are seated at a table with these culinary giants! How did you ever manage that?” All I can say is that I am one of the luckiest girls in the world. I eat wonderful food, meet outrageously talented artists, and have the privilege of dining with them. Occasionally, they even ask my opinion, and seem to appreciate it! Rest assured, I do not take my job for granted.

But back to the challenge: 12 of our cheftestants drew knives with either a protein or a classic French sauce and were asked to work in teams of two based on which sauce they believe went best with each protein. The 13th contestant, Kevin, who had won the Quickfire, impressing Daniel with his Escargot Fricassee and Candied Bacon Jam, had the privilege of dining with us. This unusual circumstance was a first in Top Chef history. While the other chefs slaved in the kitchen that day, members of the crew took him to buy a new suit for the occasion.

First in the multi-course caravan came Ron’s Frog’s Legs and Robin’s Meunière, a brown butter sauce traditionally served with lemon and parsley. Although both the sauce and the frog’s legs had decent flavor, the meat was overcooked and the plate lacked the refinement we had hoped to see. Next up was Brian’s Warm Cured Trout, accompanied by Mike Isabella’s deconstructed eggless Béarnaise. This is certainly one of my favorites of classic French cooking, a smooth, creamy reduction of white wine, vinegar, tarragon and shallots, mounted with egg yolks and lots of butter. Their version was absolutely perfect in this modern incarnation. Each component could be tasted on its own and also melded together to form a stunning replication of the sauce as a whole. Served alongside the beautifully filleted and plated trout, it was a revelation to us all, Robuchon included.

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Gail, Your blog about tonight's episode was posted before the episode aired on the west coast. Please, please, please don't let Bravo.com do this anymore. It completely ruined the suspense of who packs their knives.

Mattin actually was given some airtime this week! Which told me immediately that he was going to be in the bottom of the pack. I thought he was going home, but then after Ashley's virtual "screw it" at the Judges Table, I figured it would be her. This was the first elimination that surprised me this season, I didn't see it coming. That meat must have REALLY been bad. As for Jesse earlier...well, as I said already, Hector's elimination was the first one to surprise me this season.

Jennifer, Brian and Michael. And I sure don't mean Michael Isabella. Two weeks in a row he's ridden coattails. The three names I've mentioned, plus Kevin, are so far ahead of the pack right now that it's actually stunning. Even two seasons ago when it was clearly a two-horse race with Blais and Izard, there were at least some others showing potential to reach that level. Here, thus far and for at least two weeks running now, no one's close to those four names.

Clearly, bernaise sauce is meant to be prepared with filet, not trout. Even an american culinary novice as myself knows this. I'm stunned that the judges didn't address the mismatching of sauces with entrees. It was weird that they never mentioned this at the judging. Usually they make a big deal about inaccurate pairings. I think that is very very strange???? Does anyone agree?

I am so impressed with this group of chefs, well done! As viewers, all we know is what we see, and I was sad to see Hector go...but I didn't taste the food, so what do I know? Thank you Bravo for bringing so many brilliant young chefs to this season, They (almost) all amaze me. I am rooting for Kevin, the brothers, and Jen (in no particular order, and I also believe that Ashley has promise), bravo to them and to Bravo.

you know what i'm over? bravo making this show go too long. there's nothing worse than DVRing Top Chef only for it to cut off right before the loser is announced because Bravo decided to make it a "Supersized Episode." ummm, stop it. what's the point in watching if we miss who the heck gets cut?

I did enjoy last nights Top Chef. Mike V. and Jennifer did have a winning meal and so Did Bryan and Mike I.For the first time in the history of Top Chef I was so glad I wasn't a judge. The thought of eating anything so close to a slug makes my stomach do flip flops. I was always so proud that there was no food that I didn't like or wouldn't try.In nmy mind I can't get a picture of a glorified slug out of my head.

Gail, I really enjoyed reading your detailed blog. I found it interesting and informative!

Sad to see Hector go. I just had dinner at his restaurant, Pura Vida, the other day, and it was sooooo delicious, especially the goat with plaintains. Sat next to the kitchen, so got to see Hector a few times. Judging must be tremendously difficult in these situations to let talented chefs go by the wayside. Went to Woodfire Grill a few weeks ago (saw Kevin there as well), and was hugely impressed from top to bottom. I wonder about the sequence these show are shot. I've seen Kevin and Hector lately, so hmmmm. Does that mean Kevin gets eliminated? Perhaps the finale is shot close to airing to maintain the secrecy? Haven't checked Eno yet...

Gail, thank you very much for explaining the sauces. I was trying to figure them out when watching the show, but it all went to fast. I am perplexed regarding Michael I's eggless Bernaise. If the sauce is made with eggs, is it the same sauce without them?

Also, Viewer, stay off the computer if you don't want to know the outcome. Sheesh

Gail,

You are definitely lucky. But if you're old enough to have a husband and a career, you're a woman---not a girl.

Don't downplay yourself by labelling yourself as a child. You're an esteemed professional, a woman of taste and authority!

It's too bad Ashleys inarticulateness translates as surly. In the judging she made a heroic effort not to throw Mattin under bus (deservedly) for brushing off her suggestion to use asparagus in the sauce. And then she gets tagged as a "screw it" attitude. Mattin did not step up and take responsibility for that even when one of the judges suggested that asparagus might have been used. It's my impression that you have a bunch of sophisticated and suave male chefs and a group of "overacheiving" females (at least as some of these guys see it) who have not reached finesse of the guys either in skill or prescense. On the other hand, I don't think it is fair for Top Chef to practice affirmative action for women if it is going to result in this poor a balance in their experience and skills. It's not fair to either the women or the men. After all, it's only been a short time since women have been given a fair chance in the culinary world so that it is to be expected that there is not a big enough pool to draw from to make up one half of the group. And I'm an elderly woman who has been for women's rights for decades, not a male chauvinist.

I like the show..the talent is amazing, Im sure u know a lot about food, but would it kill u to be nicer? your comments are painful to watch!...nothing constructive comes out of you....what do you think of yourself when you see the show air? Do you like what u see about your comments? I do not...and when u say something 'nice' I wonder if is true...I feel your co-workers....!

peace,

Nice blog, thanks for explaining a little on the preparation techniques of the dishes we saw during this competition. Wish I could have tasted some of them!

Gail - Thank you for the best blog I have read so far in all the episodes. I learned a great deal about French cooking and its influence on Western cooking. Great job.

Jesse is probably not nearly as inept as she came across on the show. It was just not her time to shine. And I hope she does not beat herself up over it.

This is by far the greatest Top Chefs yet to date. I am so getting into their brilliant cooking skills and the way they interact is quite refreshing. (still have flashbacks of Betty screaming and screaming and screaming)

Thanks Top Chef for such an amazing season.

Great blog as usual. I also enjoyed the breakdown of the sauces in your blog so that the viewer had a better understanding of what was expected. I heard comment at the challenge from the Judges, which stated "we would not have had this quality of food from previous seasons." I don't beleive that the calibar of chefs this season is not that much higher than previous seasons. Richard Blaise was extremely creative and sophisticated with his food. Not to mention many of the fine chefs who were also in the shows. Season 2 being the exception where there seemed to be more cooks than chefs. Hector was considered a rising star and he could not even cook a ternderloin so take it easy on the previous seasons, all were quite talented.

Gail, It is always nice to read your comments. I am so happy you are judging this season! I was a little worried that they had replaced you with Toby. Thank goodness that is not the case! I feel that you give great insights to dishes, where he seems to just slam them. (I understand he is a food critic and that's what they do, but as a viewer I would like to know what the taste profiles are and how the work) Thanks again for a great blog! ps I love the supersized episodes! Top Chef is one of my favorite shows.

Bearnaise (not bernaise) sauce is served with fish in some parts of France traditionally (and you can find it in many Parisian restaurants as well.) In fact, beurre blanc was a "derived/mistake" version of a bearnaise sauce being created for fish. "American culinary novice" needs to hit the books.

I missed the show, but reading your blog, Gail, made up for that. The explanations and details made it all come to life. Thank you for such excellent writing.

do any of the judges see that Mike has jumped on the skirt tales of winners and admits he didn't even know how to make his sauce? You should think about asking more questions to dig deeper on some challanges. Love the show

Thank you Gail for your blog with it being so informative. I do have to say I totally agree with Quincy about Mike riding the top chefs coattails. It is so obvious he is out of his league. You need to ask more questions about his sauce, he didn't even know how to make it and Brian had to tell him his special receipe. He is a snake.

I think the team made the right decision. You cannot argue with the French about their basic recipes---they are the basis of most modern high-end cooking; however, anyone who can take the recipe and enhance it in a way a die-hard French cook can taste and appreciate as an interpretation of the original that makes it better, should be commended. I think the panel did a great job with their difficult decion tonight. While I may have wanted someone to go home because of their poor attitude, you chose the right person based on performance.

Hi Gail,

A little late here, but welcome back to Top Chef! It is so refreshing to see you as a judge again.

Thank you for explaining why the French chef didn't get kicked off. It was unclear from the editing and Tom's blog, but your post clarified it for me.

Did you see the look on Gails face when she found out she got the little piece of steak??? How many free meals can this mooch ask for. I was glad to see new judges last season when she was out getting married. Though she got a free meal factored in for her wedding too. Time to cut this freeloader loose and get a new judge.

Gail, love seeing you get a little feisty on this episode. You seemed really offended that some of the cheftestants had botched such basic elements in front of that august company. Well done!

Gail,

I heart you :-)).

I always save your blog for last so I can savor every last bite (no pun here). I love how you explain the meals for those of us that know nothing about this kind of cooking but enjoy TC none the less. I have seen all of the seasons and was so disappointed when my favorite Carla lost last year.

My top four have been mentioned repeatedly so I will give the names a break. Glad you are back. Continue to write for the novice cook as well as those that have advanced past that title.

Hi Gail,

Best episode yet (of all seasons). In terms of the blog, one tiny request is to link to better matching recipes. For example, the pepper steak recipe link doesn't even mention a sauce, yet the sauce was a major point of debate in the episode. I'm not sure if F&W has the time/opportunity to try and recreate a dish based on the show, but it would be great if they could.

Thanks, JonJon

Jessie and Hector ,, their elimination was fair. Jessie was consistent but unfortunately at the bottom. Hector had a bad start with his deep-fried steak ,, maybe it was a traditional preparation in his region. But his mistake this week excluded any such excuse - he simply blew it. Bungled it perhaps is better description.

Jessie and Hector ,, their elimination was fair. Jessie was consistent but unfortunately at the bottom. Hector had a bad start with his deep-fried steak ,, maybe it was a traditional preparation in his region. But his mistake this week excluded any such excuse - he simply blew it. Bungled it perhaps is better description.

Is michael voltaggio married?

Gail -

I would think an expert of your magnitude would comment that fine French cuisine is actually derived from Italy. The arrival of Maria de Medici (from Tuscany) in the French royal circles was the impetus for the development of French cuisine. She brought sophistication from the refined Tuscan court to the rustic French methods of the time. Of course, I learned this while touring the palaces of Florence, so my source may be biased.