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Deconstructing food sounds fairly simple. You take a dish apart, and then rebuild tinkering with texture, temperature, and design. Yet, you have the power to alter the diners’ experience, while maintaining the tradition and nostalgia of the original creation. As a matter of fact, I think it’s best to think of deconstruction in cuisine as a necessary process to upgrade and advance flavor.
Penn and Teller, our guests, are somewhat deconstructed themselves. They don’t wear the traditional garb of a magician. They don’t act the same, or talk the same. Well, one of them doesn’t even talk. And some of their tricks, as witnessed tonight, are classics. Cup and ball, sleight of hand. We’ve all seen it a thousand times. Just like we’ve eaten meat lasagna a thousand times. But doing it with clear cups! That would be like Kevin making translucent mole... Hold on, that gives me an idea ....
As I write this, I’m sitting on a hotel balcony a few doors down from two of the most world’s most famous culinary deconstructionists, Paco Torreblanca and Juan Mari Arzak from Spain. Yes, I’m name-dropping. But it’s more than appropriate here considering the theme of the challenge.
These revered chefs, and some of our own “cheftestants,” get it. They can wax poetic about their reasoning for putting Caesar salad in the shop, and replacing the classic dressing with one made of an emulsified egg yolk cooked slowly at exactly 62.5 degree celsius, as Michael did. Or discuss how to capture the essence of a Mexican mole negro, in many dissected parts, as Kevin did ... and how the great Arzak did at the Star Chefs International Chef’s Congress this week.
For the record, making mole is like building a 1000-piece jigsaw puzzle on the third story balcony of this midtown Manhattan hotel. Deconstructing mole would be throwing the puzzle overboard, running downstairs, and reorganizing it here on Park Avenue, during the lunch rush hour. That’s mole— loud, almost uncontrollable, raw, and chaotic.
With that being said, Kevin drew a dive with a high difficulty and he hit the water without a splash. Hard to imagine, I know, since we have actually seen Kevin’s pool entrance before.
Some of the easier draws in the challenge, Caesar salad and meat lasagna, get two entirely different approaches. But both display the range of what deconstruction can be. Deconstruction does not have to feature foams, meticulously diced vegetables and encapsulated dressing. Michael Voltaggio runs his dish through the Wonka express. Jennifer just shines up a few parts. But at the end of the day both chefs get the desired reaction for a successful deconstruction. The dishes are reminiscent of the original. But better.
It’s rare that I watch an episode and say out loud that I would have loved to be a part of that challenge. This was one, regardless of the dish, as a creative thinker, what fun! Then, seeing the paella, the fish and chips, and shepherd’s pie, was really disappointing.
But there is a bigger problem here, a fatal flaw even. The bottom three were not there solely because of bad technique. They were called to judgment because of their inability to think creatively. Their inability to understand the theme of a challenge. Their inability to respect tradition enough to honor a classic dish.
What was made clear tonight, was that the chefs on the bottom of this challenge, do not have what it takes to win this competition.
We are on repeats next week, so I’ll see you all in two weeks!
Please find me on twitter @RichardBlais
Check out my ‘Second Helpings’ piece on OmnivoreAtlanta and at www.richardblais.net
I loved you on Top Chef! I thought you should have won you are top chef in my book!!
Hello Richard,
I look forward to your weekly comments. They are fun and unique. My question to you is really off the topic of this past ep: Why are there 2 distinct pix of you? The one attached to this blog doesn't even resemble you. Are you "two-faced"? Just wondering...
In the future I'd love to hear how you might have responded to each of the challenges. If you describe the dishes you think would be appropriate it gives me more insight into the mind of a chef. It also helps me understand the challenge. Perhaps you could incorporate that into your blog entries?
By the way, I'm a big fan. I'm one of the many people who loves Stephanie but thinks you should have won your season. Hands down.
Thanks for explaining "deconstruction" in such an eloquent manner. I know it's just one of your fortes and we would have loved to see you on this show.
Maybe it's just me but I feel deconstruction is a process...much like model plane building or something of that nature. You can take all the individual pieces and prep them individually, add your custom touches, and voila! your work of art.
However, when you start adding pieces that aren't part of the original I think you are going astray and not being true to the dish. For instance, when tuna was substituted for corned beef in the reuben dish how can you be true to the original dish? To me that is like putting a periscope on the model plane, it just doesn't go there. Any fan of corned beef (such as myself) who was expecting corned beef would probably be pretty disappointed I believe. It would take some amazing skill to make tuna look, taste, and have the same texture as corned beef and even so I doubt it could be carried out to 100% perfection.
So I am disappointed substitions were not a basis for error in this episode. I don't believe you are really testing the limits of a contestant if you allow them to substitute because most people would just tend to work with something in their comfort zone, and you don't get to see the result that would have occurred if the contestant had worked with the original ingredient and the unique challenge that it presented. So to me it is almost like cheating, and should not have been allowed. Interpretation is one thing complete substitution of a main ingredient is another.
On another note how about dropping us a line whenever you plan on getting back to Atlanta for a while, would love to get a chance to experience your cuisine. Take care.
Blais,
How would you have done a deconstructed Fish and Chips? That seems the most difficult challenge. I'd love to hear how you would have done it.
Thanks for all of your wonderful commentary.
Richard,
What do you mean, "repeats next week"? Does that mean no new episode of Top Chef next week? Yikes!
I have to tell you I was really disappointed with Eli and his comments about Robin's cancer. I really lost respect for him. It showed a real lack of maturity and compassion. "cookingwithgas" wrote a really good comment about it on Tom's blog.
I would have loved to see you on top chef this season...you would have added to a great season.
Richard, I'm am interested in what you would have done if you got stuck with Fish and Chips. It seems the most basic dish and probably the hardest one to divide into it's parts.
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